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Ottoman costumes : from textile to identity

af Suraiya Faroqhi

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The study of clothes and dressing has great potential for social and cultural history. Typically Ottoman urbanites situated their fellow men after a glance at the clothing worn by the latter. As to the women, such conclusions were more difficult to draw, as all females were to be modestly covered up and ideally almost invisible. Yet in practice, at least from the eighteenth century onwards, it was often possible, at least in Istanbul, to distinguish fashionable from soberly pious women. To be aware of people's modes of dressing thus was part of knowing one's way around in Ottoman society. -- cover.… (mere)

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A collection of 13 scholarly essays by 12 authors. Covers from 15th thru 20th centuries. Information comes from estate inventories, analyses of art both Ottoman and European, and both Italian and Ottoman textile industries. There also are extended essays on Albanian clothing and identity, and on Ottoman influence in European dress in the Middle Ages, illustrations for which two articles form the majority of pictures in the section of plates near the rear of the book. I confess the photos of the insides of two complexly-worked ermine-lined kaftans have left quite an impression on me, and i've seen photos of many Ottoman kaftans. (

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lilinah | Nov 29, 2013 |

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Middle East

Ottoman Empire

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The study of clothes and dressing has great potential for social and cultural history. Typically Ottoman urbanites situated their fellow men after a glance at the clothing worn by the latter. As to the women, such conclusions were more difficult to draw, as all females were to be modestly covered up and ideally almost invisible. Yet in practice, at least from the eighteenth century onwards, it was often possible, at least in Istanbul, to distinguish fashionable from soberly pious women. To be aware of people's modes of dressing thus was part of knowing one's way around in Ottoman society. -- cover.

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