Sturdy fare has seen other generations of Americans through anxious days and helped build a nation out of the wilderness. Our grandmothers prized flavor in food, don't forget. Curry came from India in clipper ships and ginger from China in blue jars we still treasure. . . Madeira and sherry gave savor to their soups and desserts. (The herbs and the good domestic wines are used freely in Cooking on a Ration and earnestly recommended for brilliant camouflage and enticement.)