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Lace History and Fashion

af Anne Kraatz

MedlemmerAnmeldelserPopularitetGennemsnitlig vurderingSamtaler
362676,356 (4.25)Ingen
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  CathyLockhart | Sep 30, 2022 |
Lace is an oversized hard cover book that would make a lovely coffee table book. Its 190 pages are divided by century. Beginning with the Sixteenth Century's openwork (removing threads from woven cloth and covering with buttonhole stitches), the origins and development of the lace industry are discussed. There are fabulous photos of the great laces of this era along with a discussion of their characteristics. During the Sixteenth Century, needle laces such as punto tagliato, reticella and punto in aria were common, as were bobbin laces and filet. Pattern books began to be printed but primarily without instructions because it was assumed that women knew how to use a needle. The main way lace was worn was as a large raised collar and as on the sleeves of dresses.

The laces of the Seventeenth Century became more masculine as men began to wear it also. During this era several Venetian laces came into prominance. They were point plat, gros point, rose point, point de neige and point de France. Bobbin laces such as Genoa, Flanders/Angleterre and Milan were prominant too.Again, there are detailed photographs of vintage laces from this era as well as a discussion of each type of lace. Note that after 1620 the ruff was no longer worn and was replaced with large flat collars turned down over the shoulders. Both men and women wore this style of fashion. Men wore deep cuffs of lace that concealed half of the hand.

In the Eighteenth Century, femininity prevailed again in the industry. Alencon, argentan and sedan needle laces were popular as were bobbin laces like Brussels, Bruges, Binche, Valenciennes, Mechlin, Lille and Blonde. More lace was needed in apparel because it began to be gathered, pleated and ruffled. Women for the first time began to wear more lace than men. Their headpieces were entirely made of lace and white lace was used to tone down the loud colors of their dresses.

The Nineteenth Century brought us Burano and point de gaze needle laces, while alencon, argentan remained in vogue. New forms of bobbin lace were created. Brussels applique, duchesse, cluny, chantilly and bayeux came into prominence and mechlin, binche, and lille remained popular. A new type of lace was invented in this century - machine lace. At first only silk and cotton were made. In 1883 a new technique was invented in Germany: chemical lace. After the motifs were machine embroidered in cotton thread on woven silk. Then the silk was burned with caustic acid or chlorine, which caused the motifs to be released from their supports. Regarding the fashions of the time, after the French Revolutuon lace fell out of favor. When Napoleon came to power he resurrected the industry by demanding that Imperial protocol required the wearing of lace by both sexes. It was during this era that the white lace wedding gown and veil were introduced.

The Twentieth Century is the final installment in the book. Because lace was used to an excess in earlier times, people turned away from it. In addition, women began to work outside the home and had no time to make lace. Lace, however, was resurrected in feminine underwear and in the 1970s began to be seen in haute couture. However, the demand for quality was scarce as machine made lace prevailed.

All in all, there are just under 200 photographs of which half are in color. Lace is a scholarly book with plenty of eye candy for the lace maker. It should be in every serious lace maker's home library. ( )
  Violette62 | Mar 20, 2010 |
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