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On the Shores of the Mediterranean (1984)

af Eric Newby

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325379,993 (3.9)6
With his trademark charm and sharp wit, Newby leaves no stone unturned in his quest for wonderfully detailed and quirky knowledge to share with his reader. Insightful, hilarious and sheer fun, this is an adventure not to be missed, by Britain's best-loved travel guide, and father of the genre. 'Why don't you start in Naples and go clockwise round the Mediterranean instead of dashing off in all directions like a lunatic?' Fortunately, Eric Newby followed his wife Wanda's advice, and so begins the wonderfully madcap adventure, 'On the Shores of the Mediterranean'. Beginning during the Newbys' wine harvest in Tuscany, the adventurous but disaster-prone pair follow a path using every form of transportation conceivable (public bus, taxi, foot, bike, boat), from Naples to Venice, along the Adriatic to Greece, Turkey, Jerusalem and North Africa, from sipping wildly extravagant cocktails in San Marco to being cordially invited to Libya by Colonel Gaddafi.… (mere)
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I don't quite understand all the negative reviews. It's all here: long descriptive passages, frustrations with transport and accommodation, savored meals, shopping bazaars, trains, boats, buses, walks, hotels grand and sordid, random encounters, all laced with historical context that follows geography rather than chronology. While "Short Walk in the Hindu-Kush" looked forward to a more modern style of travel writing, this is a classic British travel book in the old style. It does lose a bit of steam after Libya. Like so many English travel writers, Newby seems to relish the Mediterranean of the Balkans, Greece, and Anatolia more than North Africa and Western Europe. ( )
  le.vert.galant | Jan 26, 2015 |
I have only recently ‘discovered’ Eric Newby and remain delighted to find another engaging travel-writer to read and collect, “Shores” is my third book, and there will be more. But …

The author provides in his books deep historic references to his wanderings, sprinkled with humor and, usually, some sparkling wit from his wife Wanda who often brings Eric back to earth with a thump that produces empathetic chuckles in this reader. Despite the book being dedicated to her, I missed Wanda in this book – perhaps as so much of this trip takes place in the rather anti-feminine Muslim world she is kept at a more discreet distance. In addition to rather too much repetition in some of the historic details – although often interesting on the North shore – there was for me, rather more about the North African cultures than I needed. It is a part of the world I personally never warmed to, and other than a moving tribute and personal return to the WWII graves of Tobruk, the author never engaged my sympathy for the peoples of Libya or Morocco. In fact only Paul Theroux Pillars of Hercules (http://www.librarything.com/work/7723/book/71172517) has managed to bring out some of the qualities of these peoples and cultures that I did remember with affection. But Eric and Wanda had to bypass two of the areas that I held in most regard as both Beirut and Algeria were, once again, in murderous turmoil. He does provide several fascinating details of the Christian slavery of this region – often forgotten in today’s world - that continued up to the 1820’s.

But it is in the European countries, particularly a brief visit to the previously Arabic regions of Spain, that the author really held my interest, despite his often turgid and over-crafted sentences, he communicates a sense of historic place very strongly. Of their own adopted region around their modest Tuscany villa there is a charming and engaging portrait.

As the author wittily remarks, the shores of this sea are densely populated with the history of many peoples – "a cast of billions like a Cecil B de Mille 1930 production" he warns! Overall then, this is a book that can be enjoyed on several levels and one that rewards the reader’s perseverance in the more difficult passages, and certainly one that I will reread.
  John_Vaughan | May 28, 2011 |
I am generally eager to follow Mr. Newby and his wife anywhere they choose to lead. Perhaps because I had such high hopes for this one, I was disappointed. Newby's practice is to mix history with current observation in a mix that gives a non-traveler a feeling of place. The Mediterranean is surrounded by so many cultures that each chapter had to start all over again, so I never got much real feeling for anywhere. It was more like reading short stories than a novel, and I am one who prefers the leisure of a novel to look at a place in depth. Then too, I often found myself backtracking to read the beginning of sentences that ran on and on for no stylistic reason that I could understand. (I'm one to talk, but the book could have used more editing.) So, while this is not a bad travelogue at all, it's not one of Newby's best. ( )
  LizzieD | May 22, 2009 |
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To Wanda, the only item of essential equipment - apart from a Rolex watch (boiled in a stew by Afghans to test its waterproof qualities) - not lost, stolen or simply worn out in the course of some thirty years of travel together.
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When people in England and America ask about our house in Italy and we tell them that it is in northern Tuscany, their eyes light up, because Tuscany is one of the parts of Italy that the British and the Americans know about, or think they do.
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With his trademark charm and sharp wit, Newby leaves no stone unturned in his quest for wonderfully detailed and quirky knowledge to share with his reader. Insightful, hilarious and sheer fun, this is an adventure not to be missed, by Britain's best-loved travel guide, and father of the genre. 'Why don't you start in Naples and go clockwise round the Mediterranean instead of dashing off in all directions like a lunatic?' Fortunately, Eric Newby followed his wife Wanda's advice, and so begins the wonderfully madcap adventure, 'On the Shores of the Mediterranean'. Beginning during the Newbys' wine harvest in Tuscany, the adventurous but disaster-prone pair follow a path using every form of transportation conceivable (public bus, taxi, foot, bike, boat), from Naples to Venice, along the Adriatic to Greece, Turkey, Jerusalem and North Africa, from sipping wildly extravagant cocktails in San Marco to being cordially invited to Libya by Colonel Gaddafi.

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